Information courtesy jdobson@doitnow.com
Terminology
Sett
The "sett" of a tartan is the pattern of stripes. This includes the stripes in the warp (threads that run "north and south" on a loom) and weft (threads that are woven "east to west" or back and forth across the warp).
Thread Count
The "thread count" indicates the warp color arrangement and proportions rather than an actual number. (Usually the same as the weft with tartans.)
Instructions
The numbers here represent a guide to proportions and are the lowest
numbers possible. There is not a "standard" size for the tartan,
but it is usual for a weaver to use a large-scale sett for a kilt and
a smaller scale for smaller items.
The following diagram is a full-repeat. It reads from left to right and
is to be used for the warp and the weft.
| 2 |
6 |
8 |
32 |
8 |
6 |
| red |
blue |
brown |
blue |
brown |
blue |
When the weaver has threaded the warp to the end of the diagram, he/she
simply begins over again reading left to right until the desired width
of cloth is achieved. Again, the numbers shown are the smallest number
possible. (Due to practicality, this usually begins with 2.) These numbers
can be multiplied to achieve the size of repeat needed.
The weft (the threads that go across the loom) is woven into the warp
using the same proportions as above. If you multiply the diagram by 3
to increase the size of the repeat, then you use the same numbers to create
the weft.
Example
Let's say you multiply the diagram by 4. Then when threading your loom, the warp colors would be proportionally...
| 8 |
24 |
32 |
128 |
32 |
24 |
| red |
blue |
brown |
blue |
brown |
blue |
When weaving in the weft, you would use the same proportions for the
weft.
You may start at any point if you desire your cloth to begin and end at
a certain point in the sett.